Thanksgiving Bread and Wild Mushroom Stuffing

 This Wild Mushroom Stuffing is inspired by Alice Waters of Chez Panisse

Servings: 8-10

1 pound chanterelles or mixed wild mushrooms 

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 shallots, peeled and finely diced

4 cloves garlic, minced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 cup finely chopped celery 

1/4 pound smoked bacon (or 2 tablespoons of bacon grease) 

1 turkey or chicken liver, diced

1 day-old baguette, crust removed, to make 4 cups cubed

3 cups milk, or as needed

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme

2 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

1 lightly beaten egg, if desired.

PREP 

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. 

Clean mushrooms, and cut in half crosswise. In a large skillet over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter, and add shallots and 1/4 of the garlic. Saute until soft, about 2 minutes. Add mushrooms, and season with salt and pepper to taste. Sauté until mushrooms are softened, about 8 minutes. Chop coarsely, then place in large mixing bowl. In the same skillet, melt remaining butter. Add the celery and the remaining garlic. Sauté until softened, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and add to the bowl of mushrooms. This can be done one day ahead and then kept in the fridge overnight. 

Return skillet to medium heat, and add bacon. Cook until crisp, then remove bacon (discard or save for another purpose), saving fat. Add diced liver to pan, and saute over medium heat until browned, about 2 minutes. Drain well, season with salt and pepper to taste, and add to mushrooms.

In a large mixing bowl, combine bread cubes and enough milk to saturate them. Drain bread, squeezing gently. Add to mushrooms, and mix gently. Add herbs and mix again. If desired, add egg to bind stuffing.

Place in buttered casserole dish. Cover with buttered parchment, and then foil. At this point, the stuffing can be held for several hours, but should be at room temperature before baking. Bake until mostly heated through, about 25 minutes. Remove parchment and foil, add some drippings if desired. Bake until crispy edges form, about 15 to 20 minutes longer. Check often to be sure it doesn't burn. 

Thanksgiving Meal & Traditions

General Thanksgiving Plan 

If we are hosting, this is a typical plan we follow: 

Roasted Turkey in the Big Easy/Airless Fryer 

Turducken: we order this as an addition if we have a very big group

Char Broil's Big Easy Infrared Oil-less Fryer

Giblet Gravy: Jill makes, generally uses Mimi’s recipe, but makes in advance if possible and pours some turkey drippings into it. See recipe. 

Cranberry sauce: homemade plain sauce with orange zest or also cinnamon 

Additions: We’ve tried the dried cranberry chutney, and Sarah is adding Alison Roman’s cranberry relish plate with canned cranberry jelly, oranges, and shallots.  

Sweet potatoes: Joy of Cooking’s recipe with a teeny bit of brown sugar, butter, salt, orange juice and orange zest. Pick number of potatoes for your crowd (1 potato per every 2 people) and divide between two casserole dishes. Make ahead; put in freezer; bake on T-giving day. For one of them, pull out warm casserole, put baby marshmallows on top of one of them and run in hot oven for 5 min so they crisp up—if you leave in too long, they will melt. 

Stuffing: The dishes that elicits the most passion from people. 

*I am attached to Mimi’s cornbread stuffing. It is a particularly flavorful version with lots of parsley and green onion. Trick is it has to look almost like soup when it goes in or it dries out. Easy to make Gluten Free with Bob’s Red Mill GF cornbread mix. 

*Introduced to us by Elizabeth Smyth: Alice Water’s Wild Mushroom Stuffing. This is very, very good. Sarah has embraced this as her own. 

*Don't argue with people about which stuffing is better. People are attached. Let them bring their own. See notes below. 

Mashed Potatoes: 

I am not a mashed potato for Thanksgiving person because I see the stuffing as the starch. But good to have guests bring that. OR, if you have a crowd who is insisting, then Epicurious has a make ahead Duchess Baked Potatoes. I also think it adds another last minute thing to do on a hectic cooking day because they are best cooked the day of. But I get it that it is important to people. 

Veggies and Greens Options: We vary this part year to year…nice to have variety. WIth a smaller group, just one is fine (brussel sprouts or green beans). Easiest way to have more people is to expand this category. 

1. Creamed spinach; John Besh recipe. We use this for Christmas and used for Thanksgiving in the 2010-20 years. But watched Alison Roman’s Thanksgiving special who comments on try to balance Mushy food at Thanksgiving with some crispy/fresh stuff. We agree. 
2. New addition: Kale and green beans with Shallots; can leave out Kale: Sautéed day of. Alison Roman recipe. 
3. Roasted Brussel sprouts: always a good addition. Plain or with bacon. Elizabeth Smyth made a brussel sprout slaw one year and it was nice and fresh. 
4. Platter of roasted veggies. We did this every year when kids were young and I was learning to roast every vegetable. Now we generally don’t but love having it and good thing to offer to bring when you are a guest at someone’s home. 
5. Sometimes we pick up roasted beets with oranges at Black Salt in DC; or the Brussel sprouts with bacon. 
6. We don’t believe in fresh cold salad on Thanksgiving. 

Dessert and Pies: 

*must haves in our family are Pecan and pumpkin. The rest vary from year to year and fun to shake it up. 

Pecan Pie: Sarah has adopted an Epicurious recipe that includes orange zest. 

Pumpkin: We all agree worth picking up…it’s often better than making your own. Stephanie Lowe swears by Whole Food's. Their Gluten Free crust is good as well. 

Ina Garten’s Pumpkin Tart in graham cracker crust. Easy to make Gluten free and it is good. We add it occasionally. 

Desserts we want to try: 

Cranberry curd tart with hazelnut crust (Gluten Free) 

And what about apple or pear crisp with cranberries instead of apple pie…? We aren’t an apple pie family. 

Burton’s cousin Ann Londergan made custards one year in demitasse cups and it was a really nice treat. 

APPETIZERS

There is nothing worse than sitting down to Thanksgiving Dinner already FULL! Keep them light. 

*Shuck and/or grill oysters—do this if you can. Adds an activity

*Pickled things: Green beans, okra, carrots, etc. 

*Potato Chips: Trader Joe’s makes Thanksgiving flavored potato chips 

*little bowls of nuts (nice to make your own spiced pecans early in the week) 

*if you do a cheese platter, make it small 

*grapes 

*dried cranberries 

NOTES

*Very good homemade stock makes a difference in your stuffing and gravy. Or do cheater stock by using boxed Turkey stock and adding the neck, giblets, drippings, vegetables to enhance it. 

*Notes re: guests and stuffing. If you are having guests, let them know what kind of stuffing you are serving and invite/encourage them to bring any stuffing (or any dish rather) that is meaningful to them. When we went to the Smyth’s for Thanksgiving she said, “Bring whatever is meaningful to you, we want it!” How gracious and I try and do the same. 

*Lisel Loy's mom does the Pepperidge Farm stuffing from a bag and that is great, too. 

*This holiday is about joining people together, being Thankful for the blessings you have, the country you live in and to experience joy together through cooking, eating, and sharing traditions. Being open to other people’s traditions is how you bond, learn and often adopt new ones. 

*Having people bring extra vegetables is a great way to pad the buffet if you are having a lot of guests. Having guests bring pies and wine is also a great help and lightens your load. Then you can concentrate on the basics. 

*Involve the kids, involve the kids, involve the kids. Children love traditions. Assign them each a sauce, a pie, making placards, whipping cream. bring them into carving the turkey, setting the table, polishing the silver. My best childhood memories are learning from my Grandmother, Mimi and my Aunt Jane Ann re: Thanksgiving traditions. If you aren't a cook and pick up the meal, make the traditions about setting the table, playing a game, etc. In the year of the pandemic, I made a zoom, “Polish the silver” date with my sister in law, Martha. 

*On that note, my friend Stephanie cherishes her "Granny B's" tradition of assembling the pickle plate, which was given to a grandchild to do as an honor. Since pickled vegetables are a light appetizer...try adopting that as your own. 

*2018, we hosted 32 people from my husband’s family for Thanksgiving. It was amazing, truly! Burton is from a family of “helpers” and it is a joy to have them. Have never had so much fun. After dessert, the teens organized the game, “Try Not to Dance to This Song” —Highly recommend it. 

*My friend Blair always organizes a great post-dinner game of Celebrity…a great multi-generational game. 

Thanksgiving Prep

It pays to be prepared to avoid long grocery lines, stress, and mishaps! It also helps you keep the joy and gratitude front and center throughout the holiday week. 

Middle to End of October: Invite people for Thanksgiving. Leave room for flexiblity/add ons if you can. There is always someone who may need a place to go. 

Early November: Check your supply of candles, tablecloths, napkins, glassware, matches, servers, kitchen utensils. Order anything you don't have. Make a meal and prep plan. I'm super visual and always create a roadmap like the one above. 

2 weeks prior: Make anything that can be frozen! Sweet potatoes (without marshmallows), mashed potato casserole if you want to avoid making fresh the day of, creamed spinach, if making, a soup to have the weekend after thanksgiving. ORDER A FRESH TURKEY FOR PICK UP ON TUESDAY! 

1 week prior: Buy all groceries that can be purchased ahead: sparkling water, cranberries, cranberries in a can, broth and extra broth, sparkling water, apple cider or other kid drinks, bottles of spring water (Aquafina has a nice orange label that looks nice for Thanksgiving), pecans, corn syrup, pre-made pie crust (if using), frozen rolls/biscuits, heavy cream (make sure the date lasts through Thanksgiving), apples for pie, nuts, chips or other nibbles for appetizers. Include a trip to the wine store for wine and champagne and liquor. If you are grilling or shucking oysters for appetizers (a great choice), order them now.   

Weekend before Thanksgiving/Stuff: polish silver,  pull out silverware, glassware, put candles in holders. Some stuffing recipes want you to dry out bread; if so, start now. You can do these things to get ahead: make pie dough, cranberry sauce, blanch green beans. Make an advanced turkey stock from parts of a turkey (this is really helpful). 

SUNDAY: THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT! If you are purchasing a frozen turkey, start defrosting it on Sunday. Allow four days to defrost in refrigerator. Workaround and my preference: order a fresh Turkey for pick up in advance to avoid this hassle and space issue in the refrigerator. 

SUNDAY: THIS IS ALSO VERY IMPORTANT! If you haven't been able to do advance planning for whatever reason. Get up very early, go to the store and designate Sunday as your prep day! 

Monday: Do some advance chopping: onions, garlic, shallots, green onions, and put in baggies in the fridge. Make cornbread for cornbread stuffing. Set the table. 

Tuesday: One last and final trip to the store. BEWARE: Do not go Tuesday evening or Wednesday afternoon/evening to the grocery store. Please, please don't. The hassle is not necessary if you plan in advance. Chop vegetables for stuffing, gravy. Pick up things you have ordered (oysters, turkey, pies, bread, etc.). Trim and blanche green beans. If making gravy in advance make today. 

Wednesday: Turkey: Brine (if brining) or let air dry in fridge. Make pies. Dry out bread or cornbread for stuffing. You may sauté vegetables for stuffing and put in fridge. Pick up things you have ordered that you didn't 'grab on Tuesday. If you need a last minute run to the store: GO EARLY! Review timing for Thanksgiving Day. Set up water bottles and wine. Chill white wine and champagne. Make a batch cocktail like an Old Fashioned.  

Thanksgiving Day: Turn on Macy's Thanksgiving Day Parade. Review timing. Have light breakfast like yogurt and fruit or smoothie. Prepare Turkey. Make Kale/green beans. Prepapare stuffing. Make or warm and finish gravy with Turkey drippings. Make Mashed Potatoes, if making. Clean as you go! Put out appetizers. Grill oysters. Have cocktails and enjoy. As plates are cleared, put pies that need to warm in oven; assign someone to make whipped cream. Enjoy your friends and family, go with the flow, don't worry about spilled red wine or candlewax drips or broken crystal. People are more important than things. 

Most important thing is that this is just a guide and obviously things can shift and change to suit your lifestyle. Basic advice is use the two weeks before to make things less stressful. In high stress years or years where you travel. PICK THINGS UP, including the Turkey. When Sarah was born on 11/4, we picked up the whole meal and had people over. Sweet potatoes, cranberry sauce, gravy, additional roasted veggies all easy to pick up and taste good. Turkey is the toughest to get right but you will figure out what's available in your area or order Turducken. This way you still get to spend time with family and friends. If you live out of town, invite friends over and share your joy. 

Sarah's Adopted Pecan Pie with Orange Zest, Epicurious

 

INGREDIENTS

•           Pastry dough (buy pre-made or use Melissa Clark's pie crust) 

•           3/4 stick unsalted butter

•           1 1/4 cups packed light brown sugar

•           3/4 cup light corn syrup

•           2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

•           1/2 teaspoon grated orange zest

•           1/4 teaspoon salt

•           3 large eggs

•           2 cups pecan halves (1/2 pound)

•           Whipped cream or vanilla ice cream (for serving; optional)

 

PREP

Preheat oven to 350°F with a baking sheet on middle rack.

 

Roll out dough on a lightly floured surface with a lightly floured rolling pin into a 12-inch round and fit into a 9-inch pie plate. Trim edge, leaving a 1/2-inch overhang. Fold overhang under and lightly press against rim of pie plate, then crimp decoratively. Lightly prick bottom all over with a fork. Chill until firm, at least 30 minutes (or freeze 10 minutes).

 

Meanwhile, melt butter in a small heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add brown sugar, whisking until smooth. Remove from heat and whisk in corn syrup, vanilla, zest, and salt. Lightly beat eggs in a medium bowl, then whisk in corn syrup mixture.

 

Put pecans in pie shell and pour corn syrup mixture evenly over them. Bake on hot baking sheet until filling is set, 50 minutes to 1 hour. Cool completely.

 

Cook's Note: Pie can be baked 1 day ahead and chilled. Bring to room temperature before serving


 

Melissa Clark's Pie Crust, NYT Cooking

INGREDIENTS

• 1 ¼ cups all-purpose flour (150 grams)
• ¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
• 10 tablespoons unsalted butter, cold and cut into cubes
• 2 to 4 tablespoons ice water, as needed

PREP 

In a food processor, pulse together the flour and salt. Add butter and pulse until the mixture forms lima bean-size pieces. Slowly add ice water, 1 tablespoon at a time, and pulse until the dough just comes together. It should be moist, but not wet.

Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface and gather into a ball. Flatten into a disk with the heel of your hand. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 2 days.

Tips from Melissa: 

• For the best results, use a high-fat, European-style unsalted butter like Plugra.
• You can experiment with textures and flavors by substituting 3 to 4 tablespoons shortening, lard, beef suet, duck fat or an unsweetened nut butter, such as hazelnut butter, almond butter or mixed nut butter, for 3 to 4 tablespoons regular butter. All should be well chilled before using.
• Or make a crispy cheddar crust, which pairs nicely with apple pie or savory pie fillings: Pulse together 1 1/4 cups flour with 3/4 teaspoon salt. Add 3/4 cup grated sharp cheddar; pulse until mixture forms coarse crumbs. Add 8 tablespoons chilled, cubed butter and proceed according to the directions above.
• Melissa Clark's Pie Crust NYT

Beet, Tomato, and Peach Salad

Roy Finamore's Tasty, a James Beard Foundation wining cookbook, is one of my new favorite go-to sources for simple, straightforward recipes. His approach to cooking resonates with me, and I have become a big fan. Yesterday was the first day of peaches and tomatoes here at the D.C. farmers' markets, and although they are not going to be the season's best, I used them as an opportunity to try this intriguing salad. My three children gobbled it up (the four year old did reject the beets, but this is still a victory in my book). I can only imagine how this will taste in late August, when the tomatoes and peaches are hitting their peak.

1 bunch (4 medium) beets

3 ripe tomatoes, preferably heirloom

3 ripe peaches

3-4 tablespoons good quality extra-virgin olive oil

Course salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

For the beets:

Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Cut off the beet tops, leaving about two inches of stem. Save these for another use. Drizzle with the oil and stick in the thyme sprigs if you have them.Place them in the center of a large piece of aluminum foil. Make a double fold on all sides so the packet won't leak. Roast them for about one hour. Remove and put on a plate in the refrigerator while you prepare the rest of the salad.

Peel the beets when you are ready to use them. The skins will slip right off. Halve and slice them into wedges. Drop them in a mixing bowl. Core the tomatoes and cut them into wedges. Add them to the bowl. Wash the peaches, cute them into wedges, thinner than the tomatoes, and add them to the bowl. Drizzle in olive oil, season with salt and pepper, and toss. Transfer to a platter.

If you like, saute the beet greens in a bit of olive oil, add a lid to the pan and let steam for a few minutes, remove to platter with the salad and finish the greens with a dash of balsamic vinegar.

Note: This is a salad for FRESH tomatoes and peaches from the farmers' market. Don't even think about using fruit from the grocery store, even if it is Whole Foods. Finamore emphasizes importance of tossing in bowl then transferring to a platter to prevent beet juices from making a messy platter. Otherwise he always tries to use the fewest amount of dishes when he cooks, and I agree!

CUCUMBER SOUP

My friend Elizabeth Smyth uses greek yogurt for everything, and recently brought over these ingredients for cucumber soup. She made it in about 10 minutes, and we had a healthy soup, perfect for these hot summer days. Here is my effort to recreate it.

• 4 small cucumbers--peeled, seeded, and grated
• 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
• 2 cloves garlic, crushed
• 2 cups plain greek yogurt (avoid nonfat)
• 1 tablespoon olive oil (good quality, extra virgin)
• 1 teaspoon salt
• • 1 bunch fresh mint leaves, chopped (optional)
  • 1 bunch fresh dill, chopped (optional)
  • 
    
  • Combine the grated cucumber, lemon juice, mint, dill, garlic, yogurt, olive oil, and salt in a blender; blend on high speed until smooth. Serve immediately or chill in refrigerator until ready to serve. Garnish with a squeeze of lemon and drizzle of good quality extra virgin olive oil. I prefer to serve this in a glass or mug and sip it!